Superfine: Exploration of the Met Gala Theme
by Mari Sato
The countdown to the first Monday in May has already begun. While celebrity stylists scramble to nail the 'perfect look,' the rest of us eagerly anticipate how stars will interpret this year’s exhibition theme, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style. This year's co-chairs: Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, and Pharrell Williams, are renowned for their red-carpet looks, often subverting the typical menswear uniformity by integrating their signature style. However, many of us are left wondering how the rest of the celebrities will incorporate black dandyism. Answering that question requires a thoughtful, intricate exploration of the history behind this year’s theme to ensure the gala is both respectful and appreciative.
The history of dandyism dates back to the 1800s, as the word was used to describe a man who pays meticulous attention to trends and incorporates them into his style. However, the root of black dandyism is far more nuanced. Historians debate the root of Black dandyism, some believe it emerged when African rulers integrated European menswear with traditional African textiles, others believe it began during the trans-Atlantic slave trade when slave owners ‘dressed up’ enslaved men in luxurious outfits. Modern dandyism has been used as a form of counter-culture that is often a political statement of reclaiming identity and self-possession. In the 1920s Harlem Renaissance dandyism was portrayed via ‘Zoot suit’ and was regarded as a symbol of resilience and a way to express individuality beyond occupation. In the 70s it was bell bottoms and blazers often with a framed lapel. Today, Andre 3000 and the late André Leon Talley are among the icons emulating the style. In the context of the Met Gala, attendees must do their research to understand the significance behind this aesthetic to properly honor the cultural excellence behind the theme.
This year's Met theme has sparked discourse about navigating the line between cultural appreciation and appropriation. For people outside of the Black community, either attending the Gala or adding to the dialog online, you need to understand what is up and educate yourself on the history of dandyism period! This event will not only be the fashion highlight of the year but a deeper reflection of the societal conversations surrounding the importance of Black culture to fashion and art.
Looking at dandyism through the decades could be an effective way for Met attendees to incorporate the theme without misrepresenting the style. I envision lots of suiting, color, and patterns to reflect the vibrancy of the movement. I hope some of Pharrell's pieces from his recent Louis Vuitton collections will make it onto the red carpet. Archived pieces will play a big role in this year's Met. It would be fabulous to see some Zelda Wynn Valdes and Jay Jaxon looks rock the carpet. Zelda Wynn Valdes is most famous for making the Playboy Bunny costume and dressing the one and only Aretha Franklin. To emulate her look I want to see body-conscious sensual gowns in rich velvets, silks, and satin that accentuate and celebrate the female body. Jay Jaxon was a pioneering designer of couture and one of the first streetwear designers. His design aesthetic can largely be attributed to high-end sportswear and tailored collared jackets with heaving influence from the 60s.
I expect many celebrities will pay homage to André Leon Talley, who became infamous for high-collared blazers paired with larger-than-life furs. Brocade was his favorite fabric and he was often seen wearing capes and caftans in this textile. Early in his life, Talley was notorious for having the finest suits, wearing pleated dress shorts, and accessorizing to no end. I believe inspiration from his younger days reflects the dandyism aesthetic even more than towards the end of his life, and I would love to see Met guests take inspiration from one of those looks.
Although the guest list has not yet been revealed we all wait with bated breath to see if Rihanna will break her hiatus to grace the red carpet with her glamor. Zendaya will certainly be serving looks, hopefully in an oversized suit. Among the endless list of celebrities, I have high expectations for Cynthia Erivo, Bad Bunny, and Lil Nas X who have had constant rein over the best-dressed lists in prior galas. Attendees should take inspiration from co-chair Coleman Domingo who has created a reputation for himself for outdoing any and all menswear looks. He is not afraid of a vibrant 3-piece suit, a dramatic cape, exaggerated lapels, and some cleavage. The male guests will be held to a high bar. I cannot see another sterile tux with a boring tie and no accessories. This is the year to get creative, do something different, and go big or go home.
The 2025 Met Gala must honor the rich cultural significance of Black dandyism, and celebrities must offer both a visual celebration and a thoughtful reflection of its impact on fashion and society. For those of us not in attendance, this year's theme presents an opportunity to learn more about dandyism and the revolutionary impact Black culture has had on menswear and fashion as a whole.
Authors Note:
I myself have struggled with representing the history of Black dandyism. In full disclosure I am not Black, I’m just a white-passing Asian girl who loves fashion and appreciates how Black culture has been a catalyst for creativity in fashion.